

1989 Mustang LX CMC Mustang Chronological Build
CMC #17
BNS-Racing sponsored Camaro-Mustang Challenge 89LX
Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Week 6
Week 2 (May 17-23)
17 May 2003
Hard to believe that the first week has already flown by building this BNS-Racing sponsored CMC Mustang. Lots of progress has been made during the past seven days towards getting this thing race ready.
Today, I was planning on devoting the majority of the day to this project. The day started out having to travel 50 miles to Houston in order to meet up with a Westside Mustangs member who had stock headers and MAF for sale. These items are required due to the rules in place for the CMC series. I have to remove the MAC unequal length shorty headers and the Pro-M 75mm Bullitt MAF. I was also able to pick up a few more needed parts from Tommie Vaughn Ford to keep the build going along.
Once back at the house, I was able to remove the balance and install the new SVO steel one (very nice balancer). The installation went without any hitches or glitches. I had to heat the balancer with a torch. It slid right on and torqued it down to specs. Time to tackle the under-drive pulleys. Very nice set too! When using the SVO balancer, a spacer is needed in order for the pulleys to line up. I also installed the smog pump eliminator (no pic at this time). The smog eliminator installed in less than 5 minutes.
Bling Bling!
The next step is the A/C eliminator kit installation. After getting confirmation how to install the brackets on Westside Mustangs message board, I was able to visualize how this thing is supposed to be setup. Not hard at all once the correct bracket orientation was obtained.
Onward and upward. Time to tackle the windshield washer reservoir and battery tray. I removed the reservoir along with the horns (and wiring). Anything not needed is going bye-bye. I found an old battery tray (after an hour search). Not sure if this one is going to make it or not. Seems week in several areas and might be best to find one in better shape. I'm going to install this one until another can be found. Note: I will have to find a smaller light weight battery than the one that is in there now. Looks like a diesel rig battery...i.e. HUGE!
The header install was quite a disappointment to say the least. Anytime you go from a "performance" part back to stock, it hurts (lol). So far the driver side is done. I still have to complete the passenger side header installation tomorrow.
Driver side header (stock)
Since I had the headers off, I thought it would be a great time to go ahead and do a compression check on the motor. I will say this, when I was removing the spark plugs, I found two on the passenger side that were barely hand tight. I removed them without the aid of a socket/ratchet. This could have been the ticking noise I was hearing on that side.
| Cylinder 1 | 169 | Cylinder 5 | 178 | |
| Cylinder 2 | 165 | Cylinder 6 | 170 | |
| Cylinder 3 | 170 | Cylinder 7 | 170 | |
| Cylinder 4 | 170 | Cylinder 8 | 170 |
Needless to say, I'm really happy with the results!! I think this motor has some serious potential and can't wait to get it to a dyno.
18 May 2003
It lives!! Oh, wait....I will get to that in a sec. The day started out early by heading out and hunting down some parts at the local AutoZone and Lowe's. After killing an hour I returned to get started on the CMC Stang. The first thing was to go ahead and get the passenger side header bolted up. This side needed a persuasion stick in order for the bolt holes to line up.
Next was the upper intake removal. I did this because 1. I needed extra room to install the firewall hole plates 2. I wanted to make sure the lower intake was secure and there weren't any surprises hiding or lurking beyond what I couldn't see with the intake installed. Once the intake was off, I jumped at the chance to remove the cruise control unit and the associated wiring. Cruise control successfully removed.
Time to install the Kirban AFPR. I thought about doing the hard way with the fuel rail still attached to the lower intake. Simple reasoning somehow found its way into my head and I removed the two bolts holding the passenger side fuel rail down. I had to lift it off the injectors in order to get it high enough to remove the 3 screws holding the FPR in place. I'm glad I did this. I inspected the injectors and found 2 of the plastic caps (non-technical term) were broken. After examining these injectors more, they looked to be in rough shape. Very dirty and grungy. I decided to use a set of 19lb injectors that came off of another Mustang (thanks Mike!). Ok, injectors installed, Kirban installed and fuel rails bolted down. Pressure check was good. No leaks!
Onward to the firewall holes. Since removing the heater core left some big holes to fill, I thought I would try my hand a little fabrication. I've never used a pop-rivet tool or tried anything like this before (help! there is a mad man at the wheel!). After purchasing a 15x20 sheet of thin steel at Lowe's, it was time to get busy. I used a piece of cardboard to create a template of the piece that was needed. After a little while of using a side cutter, grinding and shaving, I had a piece ready to go! Time to figure out pop-rivets. Not bad at all after reading the directions (yeah right!). I soon found myself with a plate that covered the main holes. It actually covered the holes and looked good. I don't think American Chopper is going to call anytime soon though looking for my expertise.
Notice the gaping hole in the firewall (upper left corner)
I also fabricated another plate (no pic) down from this one to cover the A/C relief hole. Woohoo! Turned out better than I thought it would. I give it a 7 out of 10 marks.
I also cleaned up the engine bay by getting rid of any non-vital vacuum hoses and lines. This netted quite an array of odd looking devices all piled up in a heap in the corner of the garage (picture coming soon to a screen near you).
Ok, once I cleaned up what I could in the engine bay, it was time to install the spark plugs. Once all of the plugs gapped (.052) and installed, it was time to get the upper intake back on and sealed down with a new gasket. After plugging all of the unused vacuum ports, it was time to get the stock mass air meter installed. Going from a 77mm Pro-M to a stock MAF does nothing to raise my spirits.
I installed the radiator, air box and stock MAF. Time for the spark plug wires and a final check for starting. <queue cranking sounds> If fired right up on the 2nd revolution. Woohoo! I did notice some fluid of some sort dripping down under the car. Upon further inspection (car off), it turned out to be the power steering pump. I tightened the hose and all is well now.
The motor is now 100% CMC legal. Hot Damn! Time to move on to the suspension, brakes and roll cage.
19 May 2003
Ok, before I get into the good stuff, I found out that after all the work to the engine, the water pump in CMC#17 needs replaced. I didn't notice the water weeping out of the hole in the bottom. Even though when I ran the motor for 10min, it didn't leak at all. I would still feel better replacing it and the thermostat at the same time. No biggie. Better now than needing it replaced going into turn 7 at MSR (Motorsports Ranch).
Today was dash and paint day. I'm still waiting on a steering column (have one on the hook) before finishing all of the wires under the dash. So, I took the opportunity to try the new "Fusion" plastic spray paint. I must tell you, it works great! Even though it didn't come in 'flat', I had an idea that should work. This was a time to teach my son how to spray paint (constructively too). lol.... j/k. I let him spray the smaller pieces (glove box door, fuse access door and the top dash trip strip). Looks great! I did the dash by applying two coats of the Fusion spray paint. Ok, it was shiny, but here is the second part of the equation. I bought some flat black Krylon spray paint and used in sparingly. It took the shine out of the Fusion. See what you think. Comments?
Here is the "before" picture
The only other project that was worked on or I should say "reworked" is the battery tray. The one I had found that came out of my 88GT had developed a crack in it. I took it out and found that the crack ran the length of one side. Not good! So, Len and I traveled to the local salvage yard during lunch and got lucky. There was a wrecked 93 LX, but didn't have a front end on it. By chance, I checked inside the car and there it was, right before my eyes - perfectly good battery tray w/hold down. Len ponied up the money to take it home. I was happy to have found this piece so close to work. Once at home, I was able to clean it up and perform the installation.
Here is a picture of the items my 9 year old painted and the virgin battery tray. Sorry, I don't have an after pic to go along with it. It's installed and looks good!
Tomorrow - dash wiring, possible steering column install and then the dash installation. Woohoo!!
20 May 2003
Ok, forgive me that I try and do too much at any one time. Seems like some of the smaller tasks take forever to complete. My concentration tonight was on the dash, wiring and steering column. However, I had to take a 2 hour break to write an 1,800 word paper on Business Systems Design and Mapping. Paper done and submitted, back to CMC#17. I did manage to purchase a non-airbag column. Even though at first I wanted a tilt wheel, I remember the days drag racing that sometimes with the correct pressure (holding on for dear life) that the wheel would violently shift positions either down or up and notch or two. Not a good thing to happen, so I now have in my possession a non-tilt wheel.
Before installing the column, I had to disable the steering locking mechanism. Easier said than done, since I've never done this before. I know there has to be an easy way, but of course that wasn't my way. A side cutter is all that is needed, trust me.
Here is the dash with no..uh...dash and steering column. Yikes! What a mess!
Now, here is what it looks like 1/2 done.
And finally what it looks like 90% done. I still have the wires to tie up, and the panel below the steering wheel to paint and install. Looking good! I tested the instrument cluster. All gauges work and the engine fires right up! Can I get a "yippee"?
I guess I still need to paint the speaker grills eh? =)
It's late and didn't get as much done as I would have hoped. Then again, there's always tomorrow. =)
21 May 2003
Not much going on today. It was time for some maintenance (non-racing) tasks. On the list is changing the water pump, thermostat and getting the driver seat temporarily in-place.
Again, it's the small things that take a while. While removing one of the thermostat housing bolts, it began to get real tough to turn. Not forcing it is the key. A little heat from a propane torch didn't hurt either. Slow and painful, it finally made its way out of the hole (Yippee!!). You know, I'm really glad I took the time to change the gasket and thermostat. By doing so, I found that one of the hoses had a tear in it. It didn't leak, but under pressure it would have given up and spewed eventually (my luck would be turn 7 and a wall in front of me).
Ok, onward to the water pump. Not really what I wanted to be writing about during a race car build up, but I want to share my pain with you (lol). Once I had the WP off, I cleaned all of the bolts and anti-seized them before installing. The WP installation was uneventful. Here are a couple of pics to illustrate before and after.
Time to install the seat rails (recently purchased from a salvage yard) on one of the GT seats I removed from my 88 Mustang. Time to see if the seat mount is going to line up and let the seat sit flush with the floor pan. Yep, sure does. Now I can sit in a seat and drive instead of a bucket.
Time to stop doddling and get the interior done and out of the way. Tomorrow - drive shaft and safety loop install.
22 May 2003
Water pump hoses have been installed and tightened. Should be able to sign off on the engine now as being complete! I foresee the only thing left is to "adjust" the radiator mounts. Looks like the support was hit in the middle and the center of the support is raised about an inch. Nothing a little 16lb sledge and a 2x4 won't fix. (kidding)
Time to tackle the driveshaft loop and then install the aluminum drive shaft. One thing that we all need to pay attention to is safety. I don't mean to point fingers or bash, only to enlighten those that might not know. All 4 drive shaft bolts came out using only my fingers. One of those things that a little extra time would prevent a serious problem on the road. Ok, off the soap box.
The drive shaft loop (HPS) is a nice piece of metal. I've always used the HPM in every Mustang I've owned for the past 10 years. Can't go wrong with it. The installation took 15 minutes and was made a whole lot easier due to the interior already being out of the car.
Next on the list was to go ahead and install the aluminum driveshaft. A no brainer installation ensued.
With the 4 driveshaft bolts torqued down, it was time to start thinking about what is next on the list to get CMC#17 track ready. Time is definitely not on our side. I'm out of parts, but still have things to do. I need to get the rest of wiring (what's left of it) out of the way. Take the door panels off (yeah!) and get some after market gauges installed (mechanical oil pressure and water temperature).
It's starting to look good!
23 May 2003
Ok, someone queue Willie's "On the road again" please. It was time to get CMC#17 out on the road and check the transmission. Please, if you are law enforcement, don't read any farther. (lol!) With the mismatched wheels, the primer paint and of course no seat belts, CMC#17 was looking like it was out for some trouble. Ok, now queue "Bad to the Bone". Noisy...yep, I said NOISY. hehe My neighborhood just loves me, I know they do. I can feel the warmth just fill their hearts when I drove by. They must really love their kids too. When I approached they grabbed every child, clutched them tightly and ran inside (they must be late for dinner). The security guy at the front entrance was standing outside his "hut" and must of really liked CMC#17. He just couldn't take his eyes off it. I think he wanted my autograph as he reached for a pen and held up his clipboard. I didn't have time to stop, but that didn't deter him. He was still writing something down while looking at the back of the car when I drove by. Such a nice guy too.
Finally out of the subdivision and on the open road. Nothing like debris rustling around in the car and blowing in your face. Ah, smell the 6 month old leaves, lovely smell. Everyone on the road seemed to notice CMC#17. It's like they were drawn to it somehow. I can't explain it, but there was that they were really digging the car by their points and look of awe on their faces. It really will pain me to have to tell them that CMC#17 is not for sale, no matter what they say or offer.
I must return home, it's getting to crazy out here. CMC#17 is drawing too much attention, just what I didn't want to have happen. As I rounded the last corner and let the RPM's run free, everyone at the gas station paused, looked up and pointed in disbelief at what they were seeing. I happily gave them a wave, but at 20mph I had best get both hands back on the wheel. Check.
Ok ok, enough. I have run amuck. lol!! CMC#17 did very well on the road! Very happy with it and only noted a couple of things.
1. Have to adjust the clutch - pedal is way to far up when it engages
2. Must check fluid in the tranny. The first time I shifted to 4th it raked a little. The second and subsequent times, it didn't.
CMC#17 is heading to the body shop tomorrow. If everything goes well, I will be leaving it in the hands of "Mark" for a week. During this time, I will still try to update the site for Week 3 with interesting information regarding the CMC series and rules. I will also highlight the plan for the suspension and braking system.
That is all... please retune your radio station to its normal channel......
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